The older outboard motors have carburetors and many are still in service today. Although fuel injection has taken over the older two stroke models with carburetors are still wide spread in the industry carburetor cleaning tips. If you own one of these then you know there is nothing worse than starting the engine to find it's running erratic or will not start at all. These problems will occur if the carburetor cleaning is not done frequently.
Most carburetors will require a rebuild to continue to function properly. This is usually done at a service shop for a fee. The problem is, parts inside wear out and also accumulate varnish from the gas used. Even some of the seals and gaskets may fail over time causing a rebuild condition. Although outboard parts are manufactured well they still have a service life that is necessary.
On first inspection make good notes of the position of any throttle linkage, lines, or connections. A good rule of thumb is you probably will not remember the location of all the connections so take a picture before removing. Also, mark any connections or settings and make sure they can be set back to their original positions or locations. If more than one carburetor is serviced, mark the position before removal as they should always be reinstalled to the same location as removed.
Taking time and much attention to detail, slowly remove the carburetors from the engine. If you drop any parts or pieces they can be retrieved using a pickup tool with a claw not a magnet as many parts will be stainless steel or plastic. Watch for any gasket material peeling away and always attempt to remove the carburetors as clean as possible.
Note the intake on the engine and the reeds (they look like metal finger vents) that can be seen when the carburetors are removed. They should never be tampered with unless you intend to replace them and must be protected. If any are damaged they must be replaced as the engine will not run correctly. A broken reed or if you see one clearly stuck open, must be replaced. Two stroke outboards depend on the reeds to maintain the correct direction of airflow into the intake. Simply placing a clean rag of the intake will protect the engine and reeds from any falling debris or hardware.
Obtain suitable containers for carburetor parts including screws, gaskets, and even the carburetors themselves. Prepare the work are to keep the carburetors separate so any pieces disassembled can be relocated back to where they were removed. Never cross parts as some carburetors will have different components that appear the same or even components that wear evenly and will only work with their original carburetor. Never disassemble more than one carburetor at a time taking care of all the parts.
Using a good spray cleaner, clean all the parts entirely. Wear chemical resistant gloves and clean any debris found including any varnish or oil. Do not use an automotive type carburetor soak as it can damage internal parts on an outboard carburetor. Some motors have internal seals and parts that will not be disassembled or retrieved easily and the soak may dissolve those causing a malfunction. Always remove any welch plugs if necessary to spray access ports that appear clogged. Insure all passages are clear and take time to clean every corner and hole found. No second chances are given here once you reinstall it is then too late.
Locate a suitable carburetor kit for replacement parts. A quick inspection of the float should be made to determine if it needs replaced as well as most kits do not include a float assembly and must be purchased separately. Make sure the kit has parts that look virtually identical and also make sure of any parts missed during dis-assembly which require replacement landroverbar. Outboard parts can usually be purchased online much cheaper and the cost of a carburetor kit can be up to half as much as a regular retail counter would charge. Always purchase a new kit whenever possible during cleaning as sometimes carburetors can be disassembled just for cleaning but if any gaskets are damaged they must be replaced.
Replace parts from the kit as necessary. Take note of a few key components to any carburetor rebuild. What is called the needle and seat is actually a brass insert (seat) and a small pin (needle) sometimes with a rubber tip but always pointed that sits below the float assembly. The needle is usually attached to the float assembly by a clip and moves in and out as the float moves. The needles can stick in the seats causing a lean condition or fail to close completely causing a flooding condition. No matter the problem the needle and seat should always be replaced when possible. Make sure to replace all seals and gaskets and any new parts included in the kit.
Typically, only one adjustment is necessary when reassembling the carburetor. The float position is usually adjusted to a given height which is actually the adjustment for the amount of fuel the carburetor will accumulate and maintain for use. If the kit contained directions now is a good time to refer to the float adjustment and any instructions. This adjustment must be done correctly every time and if you are unsure do not reassemble until the information can be located. For many outboards no instructions are given and it is assumed that the float will be adjusted to sit parallel with the carburetor body. This is usually done by holding the carburetor upside down and observing the float resting on the needle and seat by its own weight. The distance can usually be adjusted by either bending a tab on the float or by an adjusting screw if one is present.
Now final assembly of the bowl and any other parts can be completed. Take care not to over tighten and screws and make sure everything is seated properly. A final inspection should be completed to insure all looks OK. A quick check of the needle and seat can be done by taking a clean piece of fuel line and connecting to the fuel inlet port. Gently blow air through the line and turn the carburetor upside down. The air should stop once it is inverted and open up once it is placed back to an upright position. If not, disassemble and inspect again for problems.
Complete the entire process for any remaining carburetors making sure no parts are ever crossed. Make sure the work area is completely cleaned as sometimes parts are so small they can be lost and a good clean may reveal a part missed which could cause a malfunction after installation.
Reinstall the carburetors to the motor taking care to only remove the rags blocking the reed blocks just before installation. Pay close attention to any line connections and throttle linkage. Always use new gaskets whenever possible and only tighten as needed which is usually a small amount.
Now prime the fuel system and give it a try. Note the running condition and always start with caution in case a mistake was made during installation causing the engine to over rev. Always look to other areas of installation before attempting any adjustments if the motor does not run correctly. Sometimes special procedures are required to make adjustments and turning anything at all can make it worse.
This process of repairing and cleaning is a necessary part of the maintenance. The key is to pay attention to the small things and take time when completing. Even the average person can do it and save a little money in the end.
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