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Writer's pictureAthens Kastome

A Look at the Kimono Robe Across Time

The kimono robe has made its way around the world and back. What started as very traditional and cultural attire has evolved to make fashionable impressions in cultures world wide sac a main fashion. Even today, the life of the garment is still evolving. Even the word has evolved as kimono encompasses a number of items of clothing that have a traditional Japanese look.


Traditional Kimonos


Before the twentieth century, the term kimono was not heavily used. Individual garments had their own specific names based on all aspects, from sleeve opening size to the formality of the occasion for which the garment was to be worn. The term kimono actually came into use to describe a normally T-shaped garment that had the potential of many different names and functions, now lumped together. The T-shaped pattern is made out of seven panels cut from one bolt of cloth. It is sewn together at all the edges, allowing the panels to form a distinctive T-shape that the entire world now associates with "traditional" Japanese dress.


While indeed the kimono is referred to as "traditional" Japanese wear, it is important to note that the kimono in all its different forms is anything but traditional. The word kimono means literally "thing to wear" in English. Because it has encompassed a vast array of clothing types that were once categorized separately, and because of the large variation of actual garment styles of kimonos, pinning down a solid history for the kimono is not an easy task.


The Kimono in Traditional Culture


In the twentieth century, the garments collectively titled "kimono" underwent a number of changes. As with modern fashion, the kimono that would be seen as 'acceptable' by culture changed its look based on many different aspects, from social status to functionality. Not only did the Japanese culture impact the definition of the kimono, but the Western culture did, as well. The Western influence has affected the advent of the kimono so much, in fact, that it is impossible not to find their histories interwoven.


Before the twentieth century, the Japanese military was utilizing the kimono. When met with the Western military style, however, the Japanese military quickly adopted it for the better protection of their soldiers robe boheme. The Meiji Empire was the first to see the change in clothing, and the adaptation quickly became widespread. In the very late eighteenth century, the shift to Western style clothing was no longer an option; it was law.


Soon after, a decree was issued encouraging women to also put away the kimono and instead dress in the Western manner to follow suit with their Empress of the time, and the kimono gradually became shunned for public wear. In the presence of others, suits and business attire were the accepted affair. At home, individuals would change, thus mentally and physically putting the day behind them and relaxing in the privacy of their abode in the comfort of a kimono. This shift fed the notion of the kimono being traditional Japanese wear because people would only don them in the comfort of their own home.


Kimonos Evolve


While the Western world had an impact on Japanese dress, the same was conversely true. The interaction with Japan roused interest in Europe and America, and it wasn't long before a fascination with all things Japanese was sparked. Kimono became a frequently exported good to the West. By the 1870s, kimono were available for purchase in shops, and American labels started appearing on kimonos that were sold in the United States. Designers purchased these "dressing gowns," as they called them, and then tagged the clothing under their own name to sell. These past 100 years have seen the kimono go to a retail format, a multitude of garments all labeled under the single rubric, always associated with traditional Japan.


The 19th century saw advances in technology that textile designers greatly benefited from. New techniques for patterning were developed, and new dyes were introduced that allowed for bright, dazzling colors. The bold and brilliant patterns of the kimono were easier to produce, and tailors became more confident with their designs. The kimono became commonly adorned with large, dramatic visual statements that beautifully reflected nature and the modern culture. The technological advancements also allowed for the boost in production speeds, as power-operated looms and spinning machines caused the kimono to be more easily created. The fabrics used for the creation of the garments also increased in quality, as silk became easier to maintain at more affordable prices.


Modern Kimonos


Today, the kimono continues to be utilized as everyday wear for the older generation of the Japanese. Actors, geisha, and staff at traditional restaurants or participating in traditional activities also continue to use the kimono. In general, however, the kimono only sees use for formal occasions. In the Western world, women often adopt the kimono in lieu of a bathrobe, and enjoy the feeling of luxury that it offers even while attending to items mundane.

In western culture, the kimono robe has inspired fashions and trends that go beyond the traditional dress. One such trend is that of bridal parties wearing kimono robes while dressing for the wedding. A satin or embroidered kimono robe is a common gift from the bride to each member of the bridal party.

The kimono is sure to continue enduring the course of history and crossing cultural lines, thus making a permanent place in history for the iconic, T-shaped garment. Kimonos have made retiring to the home a pleasant affair for those who still wear them at home, a way of physically putting away the work day and being surrounded by their own comforts of home.

The history of the kimono encompasses many aspects of Japanese culture. Art and textile are blended together to make these beautiful, functional items of clothing. Individuals will collect them like the pieces of art they are, and keep them on display or in private collections. Kimonos that are produced for specific collections are usually rather costly due to the quality of the workmanship and materials used, while ones that are sold for personal, daily use are more reasonable. Collectors will go to great lengths to have collections and spend large sums of money in order to make it happen.

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